Shower room

How is a bathtub made?

The bathroom is not usually the place one thinks of to illustrate the principles of mechanization. Yet the transformation of bathing facilities aptly illustrates Western society’s obsession with efficiency and mechanization. Baths in ancient Greece and especially in the Roman Empire were much more elaborate and technoiogicaily sophisticated—and iess private—than the simple “outhouses” of 20th-entury rura! America. The obvious attention given to the design, construction, and maintenance of bashing facilities indicates just how integral the activities of the bath have been to cultural identity for centuries.In 19th-century America, bathing was not commonplace. In the 1880s, probably five out of six city dwellers had no proper bathing facilities, just the use of a pail and sponge. During the last half of the century, numerous efforts were made to encourage communal bathing facilities. Reformers also advocated the use of showers in private homes as wel! as public facilities with only modest success. Essentially, Americans did not consider bathing at! that necessary for general health nor did they associate if with the more complete mental and physical therapy sessions (hot-air or steam baths, massage, gymnastics) common in other cultures. For upper-class Americans, a trip to a spa might occur once a year, but certainly not once a weak.The bathtub was considered a luxury well into the 20th century. The reai increase in the appearance of bathtubs did not come until the 1920s, with the extension of central water systems. Following the form of hotei buildings developed in the 1380$, houses, tenements, and apartments were increasingly built with separate rooms devoted to the bath. The production of sanitary enameled bath fixtures (toilets, sinks, and tubs) doubted between 1921 and 1923. The relatively standardized, mass-produced tub meant for privatB, familial use soon came to dominance.Bathtub BackgroundThough humans have bathed since prehistoric times, baths served a primarily religious, social, or pleasurable function far more often than a hygienic one. The Greeks had bathrooms, complete with water supply and drainage, as early as 1700 B.C. The Romans developed bathing as a central social habit in the third century B.C., constructing elaborate public buildings of enormous size with several rooms for disrobing, exercise, and bathing.After the fall of the Roman Empire, bathing declined in popularity in Europe, though it did survive as a part of monastic routine, and in Muslim countries. The Muslim public bathhouse included a dressing room, cold bath, and warm bath clustered around a domed, central steam chamber. Public baths regained popularity in Europe in the 11th and 12th centuries.After the fall of the Roman Empire, bathing declined in popularity in Europe, though it did survive as a part of monastic routine, and in Muslim countries. The Muslim public bathhouse included a dressing room, cold bath, and warm bath clustered around a domed, central steam chamber. Public baths regained popularity in Europe in the 11th and 12th centuries.In the 18th century, it became fashionable to spend a season at a watering place (such as Bath in England) but only 19th-century research into hygiene made a virtue of bathing. Bathing took place in primitive and usually portable cold baths at schools and institutions. Though permanent tubs were installed in bedrooms during the mid-19th century, plumbing was nonexistent and tubs had to be emptied by hand. Only after World War I did plumbing and bathtub production allow the bath with running water to become a permanent installation in the home.Bathtubs are now part of the plumbing fixtures and fittings industry, which totaled around $5.7 billion in the U.S. in 1994. This market is shared about equally between fixtures and fittings. Over three million bathtubs, including whirlpool baths and hot tubs, are shipped per year. Plumbing fixtures are classified into three industries according to the materials from which they are made: vitreous, metal, and plastic. In recent years changing consumer tastes have displaced other materials in favor of plastics for bathtubs, whirlpool baths, and lavatory sinks. Sixty-two percent of bathtubs, 92% of whirlpool baths, and 28% of lavatories are made out of plastic. Besides plastic, the standard material for bathtubs is enameled cast iron or steel. Bathtubs must be manufactured according to standards established by the American National Standards Institute.The Manufacturing Process: Enameled BathtubsRaw MaterialsThe metal base for bathtubs is made of gray cast iron (containing carbon, silicon, manganese, phosphorus, and sulfur), titanium steel, zero carbon steel, or partially decarburized steel. These compositions have been specially designed for enameling. The enamel is made from a frit or glass that consists of a variety of raw materials, both manufactured chemicals and natural minerals. These include clay, feldspar, barium carbonate, boric acid, limestone, fluorspar, sand, and other oxides.Preparing the metalThe metal is either cast into molds (gray cast iron) or drawn into sheet and formed (steel). Before enameling it must then be cleaned. Cleaning of castings is carried out by blasting the surface with chilled iron grit, sometimes after preliminary annealing (heating at 1350-1500°F [730-820°C]). The grit, or “shot,” is projected through nozzles using compressed air, or flung against the surface by centrifugal force using a special machine. A combination of both methods may be used. This blasting removes any dirt or sand particles from the mold from the metal surface.Sheet metal must undergo a more complex cleaning process. First the surface is cleaned by shot-blasting after annealing to release stresses and to remove any grease deposits. Degreasing is done with chemical cleaners, first with an organic solvent, followed by a hot alkaline solution. The organic solvent removes most of the grease and oil from the metal surface. The alkaline solution removes the remaining film of oil and leaves a surface ready for acid pickling.Acid pickling uses hydrochloric or sulfuric acid or a combination of these acids. This process de-scales the surface, which helps to form a strong bond between the iron and ground-coat enamel. Pickling is followed by rinsing in running water. The next step is sometimes a nickel dip, which uses a solution of nickel sulfate and boric acid to coat the metal with a layer of nickel. This layer also helps to form a good bond with the enamel. The nickel dip is followed by a thorough rinsing of the ware and another dip in a neutralizer solution. This solution consists of soda ash and borax in water and removes any traces of acid, as well as prevents rust. After neutralizing, the metal is dried as quickly as possible to prevent rusting.Preparing the enamelAfter the raw materials are carefully weighed and mixed together in precise amounts, the enamel frit is prepared by melting the batch in furnaces of rotary or continuous type, fueled by oil or gas. When melting is completed, the molten enamel is run out of the furnace in a thin stream into a tank of cold water, which produces small fragments. For continuous furnaces, the molten frit is run between water-cooled rolls, which chills the frit. The frit is then dried and stored in bags. Before the enamel is applied, it must be ground into a powder using a ball mill, with blocks of enamel as the grinding media. If applied wet, the enamel is milled with additions of clay and water to make a slip or slurry.The enameling processDry enamel is dusted on the metal surface, which has been previously heated to a temperature above the melting point of the enamel. The powder melts on contact with the hot article, forming a continuous coating. Firing in a furnace produces a smooth, porcelain-like surface. Wet enamel is applied by a dipping process using a large open tank. After dipping, the coated part is allowed to drain, producing a thin uniform coating. The dipping tank uses a recalculating system to recycle the enamel. The wet enamel may also be applied using automatic spraying equipment.After enameling, the coated parts are dried using cabinet or conveyor dryers heated by gas burners, steam or waste-heat from the enameling furnaces, or infrared lamps. Firing takes place in furnaces heated by metallic heating elements. Two coatings of enamel are normally applied, a ground coat followed by a cover coat. The cover coat takes longer to fire.Raw MaterialsPlastic bathtubs are made out of a number of different polymer materials, including ABS (acrylonitrile-butadiene-styrene), acrylic resins, or glass-fiber reinforced polyester. The glass-polyester type dominates the tub-shower market. Special additives may be incorporated into the polymer material to improve fire-resistance. To give a cultured-marble appearance, marble chips or dust can also be added.The starting materials for most plastics are petrochemicals—chemicals made from petroleum and natural gas. These chemicals are mixed with other special chemicals (stabilizers, fillers, dyes or pigments, and plasticizers) in steel tanks and then heated to cause a chemical reaction that converts the mixture into the desired polymer composition. The resulting polymer material is cooled and dried to form a powder, beads, or pellets, depending on the specific process and material.Plastics fall into two groups: thermoplastic and thermosetting. Thermoplastics soften or melt on heating and include vinyl and styrene polymers. Thermosetting plastics, although moldable when produced as simple polymers, are converted by heat and pressure, sometimes using a hardener, to a cross-linked infusible form. Plastics that fall into this category include epoxy resins and polyesters.Forming ProcessesA number of processes are used to form plastics into shapes, including calendaring (squeezing between rollers to form films), casting, compression molding, and injection molding (melting and forcing into a cooled mold).In injection molding, a reciprocating screw machine is generally used, which melts the plastic, pressurizes the melt to inject it into a closed mold, closes the mold so the plastic can solidify, and opens the mold to allow removal of the part. Injection occurs as the screw is hydraulically forced forward in the barrel. During the cooling and solidification period, the screw begins to rotate and melt new material for the next part.Compression molding is used to make both plastic and fiber reinforced bathtubs. For reinforced bathtubs, a mixture of fibers, polyester resin, and pigments, fillers, and other additives are mixed together and formed into a sheet. In this process, a specified amount of resin filler paste is placed onto a plastic carrier film using a special machine. The carrier film is passed under a chopper, which cuts glass roving into short lengths. After the glass falls to the resin bed, another carrier film with another layer of paste is added on top, sandwiching the glass between the two layers. This sandwich structure is passed through a series of compaction rollers to thoroughly mix the fibers and resin.After the material—called a sheet molding compound—thickens, the carrier film is removed and the sheet material is cut into charges, which are placed in matched metal die molds made of machined steel. High pressure is applied, which heats the material so that it flows to all areas of the mold. Heat from the mold activates the catalyst, which achieves curing. Once cured, the part is then removed from the mold.Two processes called hand lay-up and spray lay-up are used to make fiberglass bathtubs. Hand lay-up is a method in which successive plies of reinforcing material or resin-impregnated reinforcement are positioned in a mold by hand. Cure occurs at room temperature with no applied pressure. Special tools are used to work out air bubbles and ensure complete wetting of the fiber, if the polymer is added separately. The spray lay-up process is faster than hand lay-up and involves feeding a stream of chopped fibers into a spray of liquid plastic in a mold cavity. The direction of the fibers is random and the process is usually automated. After lay-up is completed, the plastic must solidify or cure in a reasonable time at room temperature, which occurs via chemical reactions.The Future Since new housing construction is the principal source of demand for plumbing products, the timing and magnitude of the revival of construction activity and the overall economy are pivotal factors in determining the direction of bathtub shipments. Over the past decade, the proportion of new single-family houses with 2.5 or more baths has doubled to about 44%. This has obviously increased the demand for bathtubs, which should continue as long as the economy in general and construction activity improve.Bathtub design is also undergoing an evolution. With the passage of the American Disabilities Acts, bathtubs that accommodate the handicapped are being patented, and this trend should continue. Taking advantage of the molding capabilities of plastic, manufacturers are also designing one-unit bathtub and shower. Safety is another important design factor, and prefabricated slip-resistant surface coatings have been developed.Other design improvements will continue in the area of leak prevention. Such designs include providing a moisture barrier unit between the bathtub and the subfloor, or designing the bathtub so that the wall and base are an integral part of the bathtub. The latter approach relocates all lines of contact between the bathtub and surrounding adjacent surfaces so that they are covered and protected from water penetration.(shower room)

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Bathroom Shower Stalls

Shower stalls come in a range of styles and sizes, and can be custom built to fit a particular space. A shower stall or shower enclosure acts as a waterproof surrounding that confines the water to the shower area and stops the rest of the bathroom from getting drenched. Modern shower stalls are made from tough materials such as tempered glass, acrylic or fiberglass, which look sleek and stylish and have the benefit of being easy to keep clean.

If you??re considering installing a shower in your Bathroom you??ll need to fit some kind of enclosure around it. This could be as simple as attaching a shower screen to the side of your bathtub, if you??re putting in a shower above the bath. If you want a completely separate shower stall, you??ll need to think carefully about the best location for it. You??ll need to ensure it??s large enough for your needs and that it will fit in with your bathroom??s layout without obstructing access to your bath, sink or toilet.

You can then purchase all the components that are needed to assemble your shower stall. You??ll need to choose a shower tray ?C this will determine the size of your enclosure. You??ll then need to buy the appropriate number of side panels, and some kind of matching door. Various kinds of folding and sliding shower doors are available. How many side panels you need depends on how many tiled walls you already have. For instance, a corner shower stall will have two walls, so you??ll only need one side panel and a door.

Shower stalls come in a variety of framed and frameless styles, including clear glass, etched and molded patterns. Frameless shower enclosures are favored for their sleek, open appearance, whereas framed ones come with a choice of different frames such as chrome or stainless steel. Which style you choose depends on your personal tastes and budget, but for the best results think about what look you?re trying to achieve in your bathroom and select a shower stall design that will fit in with your bathroom?

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Why do people take steam baths?

We all need water to survive and we know how important it is to our health, hygiene and our environment. Yet when we think of water, most of us automatically relate to it in its liquid form; the water we make coffee with, take a shower in, spray on the lawn and drink throughout the day. This fundamental element has the ability to transform into solid and liquid states and in each of these states water fulfills different roles. One important role is water vapor or steam. Used for everything from powering engines to pressing clothes, steam also plays an important role in our health and relaxation. With a steam shower, we are now able to have the luxury of a spa in our home.

For thousands of years, cultures around the world have indulged in the soothing warmth of aromatic steam baths. Ancient Romans and Chinese were well known for creating elaborate baths. Steam baths have also become part of Native American cultures all the way from the Alaskan Eskimos to the land of the Mayans. These cultures used steam baths to clean the body, cure illness, rejuvenate tired muscles and provide a sense of spiritual identity. It wasn’t until the twentieth century that steam baths became a more common part of North American culture.
In the 1960s steam baths first appeared in large public facilities, such as private clubs and large health resorts. The benefits of steam showers, it seemed, were designated for those who had the money and resources to access the treatment. Later in the same century, steam showers increased in popularity drastically - to a point where taking a steam shower was part of regular health treatments and followed a daily workout at the club.

Over the past 10 years, steam showers have become a popular component in new home construction and bathroom renovations. With new developments in plumbing technology and products, steam showers are easy to install in almost any bathroom and have become an affordable private retreat. Steam showers can be used daily and provide numerous health and aesthetic benefits, and are a great way to have a steam treatment without the inconvenience and cost of going to the gym or spa.
A steam shower looks like your regular shower except with sealing doors. With an optional bench seat, which is highly recommended, we are able to kick back and relax and enjoy our steam, rather than stand on tired restless feet. Steam showers can come pre-packaged from a factory or can be custom designed to fit a specific bathroom. In either case, the components will include a steam generator, steam outlet(s) and regular shower head(s). The steam generator houses the element that creates the heat necessary to produce steam. The steam then moves through the steam outlet in the shower wall and fills the shower area. The steam generator can be installed either in the bathroom vanity near the shower, under the floor, or in the bench seat. Custom showers should include a sloped ceiling to prevent condensation from dripping. Aesthetically, the unit is streamlined and well-finished. There is also a reduced risk of mold and mildew in these types of units because they are enclosed and designed to withstand the humidity produced.

In our custom steam shower we can either take a shower, have a steam or both at the same time. For days that we choose to have a regular shower, it’s pleasing to know that, with the custom sealing doors, we will be cozy and warm while lathering as the humidity from the shower will linger in the spa. The steam outlet operates on a timer and can include a small reservoir where essential oils, respiratory medications or perfume essences can be diffused. We all know that men and women enjoy showering at different temperatures, so why not splurge on a custom shower that will accommodate his and her temperatures at the same time? Custom steam showers can include a combination of adjustable shower heads, body sprays, hand sprays and steam outlets to keep him and her happy and comfortable. Our custom steam shower line can also be equipped with accessories such as a CD player, in shower speakers, steam free mirrors, mood lighting and remote control for heat, music and light.

Before making the decision to install a steam shower it is important to consider several factors. The space that we are going to use may indicate whether a factory unit or custom designed shower will accommodate our needs. The available hot water volume may have to be increased and the budget and décor selection will have to be reviewed.

A professional plumbing and heating firm will be able to assess which system will work best in our home and provide suggestions for custom spray systems, such as body sprays, overhead shower heads, hand sprays, and multi-directional shower heads. Once installed, our new steam shower will require little maintenance. Regular cleaning is encouraged and periodic draining of the system and physical inspection of the electrical components are advised.

Steam showers are used around the world by professional massage therapists, chiropractors, coaches, estheticians and other health and beauty practitioners during treatments and therapies. With cold winters and hot summers, steam showers prevent the skin from becoming dehydrated and itchy. Steam showers provide a wet heat that is different from the dry heat created in a sauna. Steam showers open our pores so our skin can excrete toxins and dirt, increases blood circulation, and can help clear sinuses and nasal passages to help us breath more easily. It is especially helpful for those who suffer from asthma, bronchitis and allergies. Steam showers can also sooth tired and aching muscles. Additional benefits of steam showers include the following:

-Reducing stress
-Relaxation
-Rejuvenating the skin
-Detoxify the body
-Increase metabolism
-Cardiovascular fitness
-Increased circulation
-Pain relief
-Enhancing the respiratory system
-Aromatherapy

Given that the average adult spends approximately 5,475 minutes or 91.25 hours in the shower every year, making it a comfortable and relaxing experience can ensure that time is more enjoyable. Certainly, having a custom shower with all the bells and whistles, is worth it and will make our daily ritual a personal retreat. With increasing demands on our time and growing stressors in our lives, a steam shower can provide a quick and affordable escape from the day-to-day.

The ultimate reason for installing a steam shower in our home however, could be its ability to iron. Yes, iron. Simply hang clothes in the shower, turn on the steam for 10 to15 minutes, and our clothes come out looking freshly ironed.

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Custom sauna design examples, ideas and considerations.

A sauna is a functioning, almost living creation. Developing your custom sauna design is a matter of blending form and function.

Part of the functionality of your sauna will be the feeling of relaxation that comes from it’s form. In other words the aesthetic form becomes part of the function. Neither form nor function is more important, they are almost one in the same.
The good news is that when you improve one, you automatically improve the other. There are several things to consider. I’ve broken them into different categories: layout, location, and ventilation. shower room

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The easy way to build your own sauna

Building your own sauna can be easier than you think. You can buy a pre-built sauna that can easily be put together in less than 30 minutes or you can buy a kit and assemble it yourself if you have some basic woodworking skills. Of course the supreme challenge is to build your own sauna from scratch. Anyone with basic carpentry skills can tackle a project like this.

The first consideration before you build your own sauna is the location. Whether you are building in the city or country may determine a lot about the design of your sauna. This can determine questions as basic as whether it will be built inside or outside, and should it be freestanding or attached.

After you have decided the location and design, you have to decide the best kind of stove for you to use. If you are building your own sauna the possibilities include electric, wood-burning, and gas. The complexities of infrared saunas make it more practical to buy a prepackaged unit if you are looking for this style of sauna. If you’re building your sauna in a rural area, a wood-burning stove can be a good choice. In the city you might be better off with an electric or gas heater. Electric is the most popular choice for saunas in the city.

You will also need to think about a way to integrate a place to rinse off and change. It is very convenient if there is a shower just outside the sauna for people to rinse off before going into the sauna. When you decide where to build your sauna think about hot water and running the plumbing to the sauna.

Location

If you are in the country the best spot for a sauna would be close to water like a lake or river so that you can jump in after taking a sauna. Close to a swimming pool is another option. If neither of these are possible, plan on having a shower nearby.

Saunas that are built in the country are usually a separate building or an addition to the side of the house. In the city, inside the house is often the best choice of locations. It should be near a bathroom so that participants can rinse off before going in the sauna and take a cool shower afterwards.

If you are going to convert an existing room into a sauna, you need to think about the moisture that will come from the sauna. The room will have to be insulated and have a vapor barrier to prevent moisture from damaging the rest of the house.

Sauna Heaters

Most people that frequently take saunas agree that a wood-burning sauna heater provides the most satisfying sauna experience. This is a common choice for saunas in the country. In the city, a wood-burning stove may not be practical. Your next best choice may be an electric sauna heater. Gas is another possibility but some people complain about the smell that they give off when in used.

Whichever kind of heater you pick, you need the right connections. This means you might need to hire an electrician or plumber. Plan this part of the project early when building your own sauna.

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How to Build a Steam Room?

Do you love steam baths? Feel that you can’t survive without them? If you are one of those who live for steam, consider getting a steam bath installed in your home. Having your own is the ultimate for many steam bath lovers and getting one may be easier (and less expensive) than you think.

There are two basic choices when installing a steam bath in your home. You can convert your existing bathtub or shower or you can install a modular steam bath. There are several steam bath designs which are self-contained and simply need appropriate plumbing and electrical connections.

Converting an existing bathtub is also fairly easy. A steam proof door must be installed and a steam generator must be connected to the bathtub enclosure.

Preparation

Steam is a highly penetrating form of moisture, so any room that has a steam bath must be properly prepared to prevent moisture damage. If steam gets into the infrastructure of your house it can cause serious structural damage.

If you are in the process of constructing a new house, it is a simple matter to have the builders use the proper materials to steam proof your bathroom. If you are installing a steam bath in an existing house, you must verify that the bathroom can withstand steam.

The basic principals in safe steam bath installation are to 1) prevent the steam from escaping, 2) collect the condensed water without dripping on the bathers, and 3) allow the water to drain. To achieve these three goals, the steam room must be completely sealed and insulated, it must have a sloping ceiling, and it must have proper drains.

To prevent steam from escaping beyond the steam bath, the structural materials should be waterproof and have an underlying vapor barrier of thick plastic. Sheetrock or plaster must be designed to withstand moisture or covered with a waterproof finish.

The walls and ceilings of the steam room must be covered in a impervious material like ceramic tile or glass. All the joints and connections must be sealed with silicone to prevent any moisture from escaping.

Once the underlying structure has been prepared, the next thing to consider is the height of the ceilings. In order to maximize steam build-up and prevent cold spots, the ceiling should be lower than 8 feet high. It should also be slanted to allow condensation to slide down the ceiling rather than drip on the bathers. A slope of 2 inches per foot is appropriate for a steam bath.

If you are converting a bathtub into a steam bath, you need to enclose it with a suitable door. Small steam areas (the size of the bathtub) should have a narrow gap at the bottom of the door to allow for airflow. Larger steam rooms can be made airtight.

The bathroom should still be constructed to contain steam even if you are installing a modular steam shower. These units contain steam pretty well but still release moisture into the surrounding bathroom area. Modular steam showers have the advantage of having extra features such as multiple shower heads, built-in seating, lighting, and even CD players and telephones.

But no matter whether you are installing a modular steam shower or converting an existing bathtub into a steam shower, you still need to select and install a steam generator and all the connectors and make sure that everything is working correctly.

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Shower Enclosure Buying Guide

A shower enclosure will be a part of your bathroom for years to come and buying one will be an investment into your house. Therefore, before buying a shower enclosure it is important to take into consideration the following, to ensure your new shower cubicle will last the test of time.

General Shower Enclosure Checks

Size, Shape and Height
There are many shapes of shower enclosure: square, rectangle, oblong and quadrant enclosures. Don’t make your bathroom feel like it is cramped, choose a shower enclosure which gives you the feeling of space inside while showering and one which gives your bathroom the sense of space.

Positioning
If your new shower enclosure can be installed where your old shower used to be then this will save a lot of preparatory work, hassle and money as the hot, cold and the waste water pipes will already be in the correct place making them easy to attach to your new shower cubicle.

Shower Enclosures: With or Without Tray?
It may be preferential to choose a shower enclosure that comes with a tray. Due to the fact that the tray has been designed specifically for the given shower enclosure it will fit properly and will have less chance of water leakage.

Tiling
The inside walls of the shower enclosure will need to be tiled. Therefore, plan ahead to what tiles you want and then tile the area before installing the shower cubicle.

Testing
Corrosion Testing - Have you ever seen chrome plating that has chipped or peeled off? It spoils the finish of your new showers. This is why it’s important to buy quality if you want your shower enclosure to look good. Buy from a company who has done anti-corrosion salt tests on all of their metal fittings.

Door Rollers - Maybe not one of the things you think about when buying a shower enclosure, but the shower door rollers are very important for the longevity and quality feel of the shower enclosure. The door runners which Di Vapor uses for their shower enclosures have been tested for over 100,000 consecutive uses: that’s a lot of showers!

Water Leakage - A good seal, often with magnetic strips on the shower doors is important to keep water inside the shower. Good seals also make the shower enclosure more aesthetically pleasing.

Door Handles and fixings - Door handles which are solid metal are much higher quality than their chrome plated plastic counterparts. These plastic handles are weaker and can give a cheaper feel to the shower enclosure.

Delivery and VAT - A shower enclosure may seem reasonably priced and of good quality, however it may not include delivery. Watch out for hidden extras like V.A.T and delivery. These extras can add a significant amount to the final buying price of your shower enclosure.

Acrylic Tray
Reinforcement - Ensure the shower enclosure tray you choose uses pure acrylic. Even if a company says the tray is acrylic it doesn’t mean it will be acrylic all the way through. The company may have acrylic PMMA sheets on the outside and ABS on the inside resulting in a poorer quality, less sturdy shower tray.

Check its Colour - Some acrylics have very bright white finishes. This is a tell tale sign of a poor quality acrylic. High quality acrylics are flame retardant and don’t have a brilliant white colour which often clashes with the other sanitaryware in your bathroom.

Acrylic Price - There isn’t just one grade of acrylic, there are many varying grades available. Some companies use a very cheap, low-quality acrylic to create and sell their products at low cost, therefore sacrificing quality and the longevity of the shower enclosure tray. Some factories use acrylic that costs £777 per tonne and others which costs £971-£1,035 per tonne. However, Di Vapor uses a very high quality grade which costs £1618 per tonne. The higher quality acrylic will make your shower enclosure tray last longer and will fade less over time.

Fibreglass and Reinforcement - On the bottom of most acrylic shower trays there is fibreglass for strengthening. Be watchful for companies who use too much resin and not enough fibre. This is low quality fibreglass that discolours and weakens over time. All the bases of Di Vapor’s shower enclosure trays use 3-4 layers of fibreglass whereas many manufacturers only use 1-2 layers of fibreglass reinforcement.

Tempered Glass
Thickness - In general it is best to have tempered safety glass of 5-6mm for your shower enclosure: the thicker the better.

Edge Protection - Glass which does not have a protective framing can be easily chipped and broken. A shower enclosure with strong aluminium framing will support the glass in the shower doors and keep it well protected.

Break Test - There are standards to which tempered safety glass must reach. A piece of glass 120mm by 120mm should break into a minimum of 45 pieces, less than this is deemed unsafe as the shards of glass are too big and could cause injury. Di Vapor’s tempered safety glass breaks into 60 little pieces; the more pieces the better.

Shower Enclosure Aluminium Framing
Are they aluminium? - Some companies use a profiling on their shower enclosures that looks like aluminium but is actually plastic. This framing not only looks and feels cheaper, it also doesn’t protect the glass on the shower enclosure as effectively as aluminium profiling.

What is the profiles thickness? - A shower cubicle may look the part with aluminium profiling, but it may not be the quality which you expect. To cut back on costs some company’s use aluminium profiling which is only 0.5mm thick. This is significantly weaker and more prone to denting than the 1.2-1.6mm thick aluminium which Di Vapor uses.

Aluminium Quality - Some companies use recycled aluminium or a composite of aluminium and other metals to cut back on costs therefore increasing its susceptibility to damage.

Structural Frame Support - Under the acrylic tray there is a frame which gives the shower enclosures strength and support. Ensure that this frame uses a metal such as stainless steel as opposed to a wooden support which is significantly weaker.

Note: We is not responsible for the views, opinions or advice represented in the articles on this site. You are advised to seek medical advice before following any such information.

Related Topics:

How to Build a Steam Room?
How to Build a Steam Room?
How to Build a Steam Room?
How to Build a Steam Room?

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steam shower

A steam shower is a type of bathing where a humidifying steam generator produces water vapor that is dispersed around a person’s body. These types of showers are becoming increasingly popular in many countries.[citation needed]. A steam shower is essentially a steam room that offers the typical features of a bathroom shower.

Steam showers are generally found in self-contained enclosures that prevent the water vapour from escaping into the main part of the bathroom, avoiding damage to drywall, paint, or wallpaper. Steam showers are available in a variety of materials, including but not limited to tile, acrylic, fiberglass, stone, and wood.

It is possible to convert an existing bathroom shower into a steam shower by adding a steam generator. The steam generator will produce steam and water (a byproduct), which must be connected to a drain below the shower, or designed to drain into the base of the shower.

Most steam shower rooms are sold as stand-alone shower units with between 6 and 32 jets located above the head, along the back or behind the lower legs. Modern steam showers may provide additional features such as foot massagers, ceiling rain showers, television, radios, telephones, audio input from an MP3 or CD player, chromatherapy or aromatherapy.

Steam showers are often available in gyms, but have also become a more common bathroom fixture in recent years, primarily due to falling costs.

The water vapour produced by these shower units is often referred to in common speech as “steam,” but this is a misnomer. In physical chemistry and in engineering, steam is a completely invisible gas and would result in serious burns if applied in the shower.

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Bathtub

A bath (IPA: /bɑ:θ/), bathtub (AmE), or tub (informal) is a plumbing fixture used for bathing. Most modern bathtubs are made of acrylic or fiberglass, but alternatives are available in enamel over steel or cast iron, and occasionally wood. A bathtub is usually placed in a bathroom either as a stand-alone fixture or in conjunction with a shower.

Modern bathtubs have overflow and waste drains and may have taps mounted on them. They may be built-in or free standing or sometimes sunken. Until recently, most bathtubs were roughly rectangular in shape but with the advent of acrylic thermoformed baths, more shapes are becoming available. Bathtubs are commonly white in colour although many other colours can be found. The process for enamelling cast iron bathtubs was invented by the Scottish born American David Dunbar Buick.

Two main styles of bathtub are common:

Western-style bathtubs in which the bather lies down. These baths are typically shallow and long.
Eastern style bathtubs in which the bather sits up. These are known as ofuro in Japan and are typically short and deep.

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Air Shower

The term air shower can refer to the specialized antechamber which is passed through before entering a cleanroom in order to blow off excess dust particles from cleanroom personnel before they enter, to minimize contamination. HEPA filters are generally used to decontaminate a room by filtering out particles greater than 0.3 micrometres in size.

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